FORMULA FOR SUCCESS WITH LAVENDER

Lavender is often described as an incredible perennial with a delightful relaxing, sweet aroma. This versatile purple wonder makes it a welcome addition to any garden as an accent plant, a grouping or as a border.

While over 50 speciies of Lavender exsist, English lavender is the hardiest and most adaptable to climate changes. Whether you choose to start lavender from seeds or to purchase plants from a nursery, there are a few Helpful Tips for growing healthy, aromatic lavender plants.

SOIL REQUIREMENTS: Alkaline soil + Heat Retention + Light Reflection = Most Fragrance.  Lavender prefers a well draining soil with a slightly alkaline pH (slightly greather than 7.0).

SAND can be added to clay soil to decrease the soil densitiy and increase its breathability and pH. If your soil is acidic, add a small amount of LIME(1/4-1/2 c lime to 1 gallon of clay soil). The lime helps reestablish slight alkalinity and adds magnesium to aid germination of seeds.

COFFEE GROUNDS (dried) have a neutral pH rich in nitrogen to help deter pests.

EPSOM SALTS (MgSO4) is really 10% Magenesium and 13% sulfur and is acidic with a pH of 6. MAGNESIUM is critical for seed germination and helps srengthen cell walls and imporve plants' uptake of nitrogen and sulfur.

SULFUR is a key element in pant growth and is crticial for utilization of vitamins, amino acids and enzymes that add both flavor and aroma to our purple beauties.

Most North American soils seldom lack magnesium due to our acid rains. Commonly used commercial manures contain sulfur. Please note that old weathered soils with low pH (those in the Southeast and Pacific Northwest) tend to lack both magnesium and sulfur.

CALCIUM is necessary for strong plant stems and roots. This mineral can be added to your soil composition by adding a few crushed Tums or Bone Meal.

WATERING: Lavender perfers hot, dry soil. It is important to keep sprinkler sprayings away from lavender plants. New plants should be watered ONLY to keep the surrounding soil damp during the first two weeks after transplanting. After this watering should occur only when the soil surrounding the plant stem is dry. DO NOT OVERWATER!!

MULCHING: DO NOT MULCH LAVENDER PLANTS WITH TRADITIONAL WOOD MULCH!! Wood mulch collects and retains too much moisture for lavender and will cause the deadliest of threats to lavender's health--Blossom End Rot.

LAVENDER FERTILIZER:The following recipe is a simple, cost effective way to make your own lavender fertilizer.

RECIPE FOR LAVENDER FERTILIZER; Mix 1 c. dried coffee grounds, 1 c. epsom salts and 2 c. compost together. Stir mixture into 1 gallon dry play sand. Gently loosen soil around base of each lavender plant in the early spring and add 1 inch of these special lavender nutrients to existing soil. Gently mix with the existing soil and water lightly.

LAVENDER BLOOM SPRAY: Apply a light foliar spray (1 T epsom salts to 1 gallon water) by mister to lavender plants at signs of first bloom and again 10 days later to enhance blooms.

***ENEMIES OF LAVENDER:

NOTE: Lavender does not like humid weather. Therefore, during this kind of weather check your plants often for signs of disease or root rot. The quality of the oil made from the blooms depends on the quality of the soil, the age of the plant, and the weather conditions which prevail during its cultivation cycle.

BLOSSOM END ROT is the #1 dreaded disease for lavender. It is caused by too much water and or too little calcium and sunlight.

GROUND SQUIRRELS are not usually a problem if sandy mulch is used instead of wood mulch as squirrels do not like to burrow in sand.

DEER are usually not a problem because they detest the smell and taste of lavender.

Create your own spot of relaxation paradise in your own backyard adoned by soft music, blooming purple beauties and a gentle breeze on a warm sunny evening.  Your own Pesonal Natural Stress Relief TIME OUT after a long stressful day.